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If I had real cojones, I wouldn't have to make this statement,
but since I worry that I might ruffle someone's feathers, let
me just say that, having grown up with a prejudiced father, I
sometimes go overboard trying to be politically correct. But
the sake of this diary, I'm just going to call it as I see it.
If I say Mexican instead of Latino, it's because it really strikes
me that way. Down here in Laredo, there are many people from
Mexico and I think they are Mexico proud, so if I am not being
super-sensitive, it's not meant as a racial slur. It's meant
to give you an accurate picture of my observations and the fact
that I find humor in most things. Plus, I really like Laredo,
otherwise, I'd be keeping my big trap shut.

January 14, 2001
I think I am going to retire this column for the time being.
My fascination with Laredo is fizzling and I think we are here
on the short-term, so all my brilliant insights into the workings
of border life will now go back, once again, for good, until
I change my mind, or have something more to say, to Hissyfit.
I will say that I wasn't being paranoid about the bullets on
New Year's Eve. Sadly, a young girl died here from a stray bullet
fired into the air that came down and hit her. As I mentioned
before, my car was shot at and I have heard gunshots nearby and
we live in a nice neighborhood. I'm just not so amused right
now.
Libbi

January 1, 2001
Well, we made it through a crazy New Year's Eve in Laredo. Sitting
at home, trying to figure out what were fireworks and what were
bullets. I have to say, I am pretty sure I didn't hear any bullets
(big sigh of relief) but being the slightly protective mother
that I am, I moved my young son to an inner room and covered
him with my husband's Kevlar vest as he slept, just in case any
stray bullets came our way. My husband is always telling me "Don't
worry" to which I reply "Don't try that logic stuff
on me."
Many people here don't speak English as their first language
and I guess it becomes a phonetic thing in trying to spell. There's
a musician here, an older guy, who plays the trumpet and has
a keyboard with preprogrammed songs like Girl From Ipanema, etc.
Anyway, the first night we came to Laredo he was playing right
next to the buffet at the Golden Corral. (Hey, at least he's
working.) Anyway, I take it English isn't his first language,
because I drove by his house the other day (he's in the hood)
and there's a sign in his front yard that says "Romantic
Trio Abailable for Parties." Ha! That's nothing. While looking
in the newspaper for rental houses, I saw an ad that read "large
dining room with separate leaving room." It took me a while
to figure out what a leaving room was, but when I said it, not
read it, I done figured it out.
Although we didn't have any gunshots, our house was like a missile
range with fireworks whizzing by so loud and fast starting at
10:30 AM and on til 1:00 AM that I was certain someone was in
our backyard firing 'em off. I think they were down the block
at El Templo Shalom, which I assume is the Spanish-Jewish temple,
where there's a little parking lot and I saw cars coming and
going.
All is well here on New Year's Day in Laredo. Laredo is a nice
enough place but it's definitely turned into 2001: A Place Oddity,
er, Odyssey for me and my family. It's just sooooo different.
Happy New Year and best wishes.
Libbi

December 20, 2000
Pork. Bleck. Ever since the time I went across the border into
Mexico a few years ago and had a side order of beans with a slab
of pork with two long, gnarly swine hairs sticking out of it
I have shivered at the thought of pork. Okay, so I like the smell
of bacon and sausage but that's different -- it's disguised so
I can pretend it's not pork. At least until my most recent pork
experience. My husband was popping something in the microwave
the other day, and we were all cozied up to watch a Viggo Mortensen
(sigh) movie and I thought "great, popcorn!" when he
says "no, it's not popcorn, it's better." Hmm...what
could be better? Lo and behold, he brings toasty, steaming PORK
RINDS freshly popped and fluffed from the microwave. Ack! I mean,
like all good redneck kids, I ate pig's feet from the formaldehyde,
er, vinegar jar straight off the bar when my dad would drag me
to a beer joint in Houston, but I like to think I've "matured
since then." Anyway, the next morning I got the paper and
the ads for grocery specials and right on the front page of the
HEB store ads was "Cabeza de Puerco." Okay, this is
a skinned pig head right on the front page of the store specials.
Eyes bugging, etc. Eewww. But it didn't prepare me for seeing
several cabezas de puerco in the refrigerated case when I went
to the store later that day. Ugh. Nas-tee. I think I'll lay off
the puerco for a while.
Another new thing for me living in Laredo is living near gunfire.
When we first moved here, I woke up one night to hear 6 gunshots
being fired nearby. I thought I heard gunshots again last night,
but convinced myself it wasn't. My husband came home shortly
afterwards and reported that someone had shot at our car 15 feet
away from where me and my son were sleeping, shattering the passenger
window near the child's seat. I sound calm because I've been
hitting the anti-anxiety pills, but really I am a nervous wreck
about this. I have lived in towns like LA and NYC where innocent
people get hit by stray bullets. This looked fired directly into
our car. It's a tad disconcerting.
The Wal-Mart here is also a madhouse. Going to any Wal-Mart
in a border town is a real experience. I knew I was in trouble
when I had to park about 30 cars deep in the parking lot and
not a single cart was available when I entered the store. The
Wal-Marts in the border towns are so crowded because things are
much cheaper in the US than in Mexico, so people from Mexico
come to Laredo to shop, while all the white folk are running
across the border to buy cheap silver, glassware, etc. Laredo
(about 150,000 people) and Nuevo Laredo (larger than that) share
one Wal-Mart so it's constantly packed, 24/7. The Wal-Mart is
also about 2 miles from the border, so many semi-trucks heading
to Mexico stop and park their trucks overnight so it is one popular
place. Well, here's to pork rinds, cabezas and Wal-Marts.
Libbi

December 7, 2000
Yesterday I spent my afternoon sifting through the Bargain Bin
at Salvation Army here in Laredo. Now, let me tell you, the Salvation
Army is TINY here, but I did manage to find a pair of good jeans
for my little boy for a mere 50 cents. I also found, if you can
believe it, a Wagoneers tape circa God Knows When. On the cover
was Monte Warden himself along with Brent Wilson and .........
Tom Lewis, I'm pretty sure. My memory is rotten. That was only
yesterday. Anyway, I didn't pick it up because my tape player
is out of commish but there must be another Austin exile living
in Laredo because I also saw a copy of the radio program Folkways
on KUT in the tape bin. I'd sure like to meet a friend here who
I have something in common with. After the rather-depressing
Salvation Army, I hightailed it to a warehouse having a "sale." "Sale" in
Laredo means anyone with a driveway or a carport dragging junk
out front and selling it. Lo and behold, this was a real, live
warehouse full of used clothing, or ropa usada, and a huge mound
of clothes was piled in a corner of the warehouse. Picture this,
a mound of clothes, about 3 feet deep, and covering a floor space
of about 15 feet by 15 feet. Which means, to look at clothes
other than on the edges, you literally had to climb on the mountain
of clothes and walk on top of the very clothes you were considering
buying. I, being caught between my Martha Stewart Fantasy of
Myself and Poor White Trash Grew Up On Welfare Reality Check,
could not resist the urge to go Clothes Climbing. It was kind
of weird walking across these clothes with my dirty tennis shoes
but those bike workouts have come in handy because my Quads were
working overtime navigating that terrain. I did find a couple
more pairs of jeans, some workout shorts and a man's suede coat
which is in terrible condition but which will be revived via
the enormous talents of my mom. The best thing about Clothes
Climbing is that the clothes in the huge pile weren't priced
individually. They were priced by the pound. A first for me.
So, I got all that for a rather good price of 30 cents per pound
totaling $1.80. Then later in the day I headed to the Bordertown
Flea Market (a sort of Flea Market/shantytown where the vendors
set up shop and some even live out of their tents) and picked
up even a couple more jeans and a toddler sized almost new car
seat for a mere $5.00 (car seats not being very popular down
here I guess they lose their value quickly!) That for sure appeals
to my poor upbringing.
Libbi

November 30, 2000
Just got back from doing my bike ride in the nearby
section of Laredo. It's cool here, which means about 70 degrees
for Laredo. That's a warm summer's day in some spots. I have
never seen a town where so many people chain their dogs to
the front porch with thick, heavy links so they have six inches
of stretching space, then ride in the front seat of a car with
an infant in their laps with no child restraint whatsoever (no
adult restraint either). I don't know where that attitude comes
from, but I guess it's just a learned thing. I have a cousin
who firmly believes that a person is more likely to get trapped
in a car than thrown from it. I guess you can't change everyone's
mind. I just can't stand to see these babies unbuckled like that,
in the front seat nonetheless. It makes me want to join the Laredo
Police force and bust a move on these fools, but would it really
do any good? Maybe I am sensitive because once I was in a wreck
where a van rolled through a stop sign and I was on the highway
(right of way) and plowed right into him. Of course, their
7 year old son wasn't in a seat belt and he flew threw the windshield
and sadly, he died. Even though it wasn't my fault it still
haunts me, and I can't understand why anyone would let a child
go without a seatbelt. I saw a pickup truck in Houston a few
weeks ago traveling at a high rate of speed up I-45 through downtown
Houston, weaving in and out of traffic with seven children in
the back. I was lucky enough to have just gotten a cell phone
and whipped it out and called the Po-lice. I wouldn't let my
dog ride in the back of a pickup truck. In fact I saw a dog fly
out of the back
of a truck once, also on I-45, and you can guess what happened
to the dog. Pretty sad. I remember when I was a kid, WAY BACK
WHEN, when seat belts were also out of fashion and we would stand
up in the front seat of the car and jump up and down screaming "Are
we there yet?" I guess it's the same thing but I hate it.
Especially when I see the way the dogs are chained up. Except
of course, the wild pack of chihuahuas roaming my neighborhood
that chased me on my bike. Poor little suckers couldn't even
reach my ankles. That's what they get for imitating rats.
I need to get a new bike seat. My butt feels like I've been
sitting on rocks. That's all for now. Profound, eh? And oh, so
uplifting. I think I'll go slash my wrists now. More later. Pictures
coming soon to this page.
Libbi

November 28, 2000
Happy birthday to me. Happy birthday to me. Happy birthday dear
me, me. Happy birthday to me.
Okay so I'm a whopping 36 but something miraculous happened
today. I was out doing that exercise thing (riding one said bicycle)
and this cute Latino guy laying tar on the driveway down the
street gave me a cat call! Whoo-hoo! Ten years ago I would have
been very upset and all indignant and stuff, but it brought a
smile to my lips. It must mean I am, alas, actually 36 and sort
of worn down on ideals. 36 going on 12, right?
One more thing I saw today: a guy on a bicycle with the Junk
Collector version of the basket in the front: attached to the
front of his bicycle was a huge platform on wheels and on it
was a washing machine, baby bath, furniture, etc. and he was
pedaling away, even though the stuff was stacked 6 feet high
and he couldn't see a thing. Where there's a will there's a way.
A sign above the sink in the Ladies Room at the Laredo Public
Library reads:
No Shaving. No Bathing.
Darn. And I was hoping to shave my legs in the sink at the library.

November 16, 2000
I never should have left the house today. In fact, I didn't
until 6:30PM when my husband returned home form work and I had
to go to the laundromat to do some laundry. You see, brilliant
young individuals that we are, we sold our washer and dryer in
a fit of apartment living and thinking "We'll be rolling
in dough when we have to move into a house. We'll just buy new
ones!" Anyway, doing laundry in Laredo is an experience,
as there are lots of little 4, 5 and 6 year olds running throughout
the Wishy Washy and screaming and trying to pry gum from the
gumball machine. I guess I can relate to this because, being
of the poor class, I have no washer and dryer and I take my own
screaming kid to do the suds thing and let him run completely
wild so that I do not twist my head off trying to keep him in
view. I figure the doors are locked and as long as I don't hear
the negative air pressure whoomp of the door opening he's okay.
It must be an unspoken rule that kids are allowed at laundromats--even
encouraged. I remember when I was a kid we played the white trash
version of "doing laundry" whereupon my brothers and
sisters and I would take turns getting in the dryer and turning
it on. Somehow, being the littlest of six children, I ended up
in the dryer the most. (The door always stayed open. Hey, we
weren't no dummies). Anyway, laundry done, I proceed to the post
office to send off some packages, but alas, my last dollar bill
gets stuck in the change machine. Frustrated, I go out to the
car, where it's starting to rain, and peel out of the parking
lot (in my bad-ass Honda) and the laundry goes every which-way
in my car. I knew I should have stuck to my instincts and stayed
home. Miserable, wet and a dollar shorter, I drive to the cozy
little casa we call home. I did, however, see an uplifting sight
on the way home, which put me back in a chipper, albeit skewed,
mood: A bright, gold flecked, highly metallic/glitter low rider
Lincoln Continental with big white letters across the back window
that read: "Laredo Dreamer." Yes.

November 11, 2000
Today I went with my family across the border to Nuevo Laredo.
I guess I expected something a little different than every other
town I've been to in Mexico. I've been to: Juarez, Tijuana, Mexicali
and Reynosa and some are nicer than others but there's always
the inevitable 6 year old girl begging for handouts on the street.
I'm not trying to pass judgment, but I don't care if I was starving
I would never make my child beg for money. It was so depressing.
I mean, Laredo, on the Texas side, is very, very interesting
and for some reason it's got me a little captivated. I actually
like it much better than any other border town I have been to.
It's just teeming with culture, good and bad, and it's a real
experience. I was thinking of applying for a part-time position
with the Laredo radio station down here because I heard they
are looking for someone, anyone, to spin CDs. The only problem
is they play lots of things like Men At Work and Foghat and I'm
not sure if I have the stomach to relive my youth. Now if it's
AC/DC, The Clash and Journey we might have a deal. "Anyway
you want it, that's the way you need it, anyway you want it." I
remember going on a date with a guy when I was all of 18 and
living in Hollywood or New York or some other place I had no
business being in, and we were parked in his car at (okay so
it was California, must have been 17) the Pacific Ocean and I
was rocking out to Journey, screaming at the top of my lungs
and he was telling me I had potential. I wonder what that rascal
meant. Hmmmm. Anyway, I worked out five times this week, all
in the same day (ha, ha) and today is my "free" day
to eat and drink what I please without worry so of course I opted
for the ever-popular Foster's Beer and PB&J sandwich. Aaaahh.
I must try hard not to think about the restaurant we ate at in
Nuevo Laredo, the one where the filth on the floor was definitely
a "Slime in The Ice Machine" episode (for those Marvin
Zindler fans in Houston), lest my peanut butter and jelly be
gurgled up. Hasta.

November 9, 2000
My legs hurt like a mofo from that exercise thing. By the way,
I'd like to congratulate Paul Skelton on losing 57 pounds! WOW.
But back to me. Ugh, how I ache. Sounds like a country song,
right? For now I'll keep separate my musings on Laredo and my
weight loss extravaganza. Laredo continues to fascinate me more
every day. It is so much more like Mexico than where my husband
was living in El Centro, California. El Centro had this real
California stucco house vibe with nice, big, clean, wide streets.
Here it's really much more of a mix. Stucco houses, trailers,
shacks, villas. All mixed in together.
I definitely feel like an onlooker here, but am enjoying the
experience, which I didn't expect. For one thing, there's zero
traffic. Hallelujah. For another thing, the culture and neighborhoods
are very Mexico proud. I haven't yet whipped out my Spanish but
it's coming. Watch out for the white girl. The families in my
neighborhood are extremely friendly, although it hasn't passed
me by that most homes have bars from top to bottom (as I said
the tenant who lived here before me nailed the windows shut in
addition to bars!). Another Mexican thing. Seems like every city
I have been to along the border the houses have these huge cement
fences surrounding them with cement driveways instead of yards.
Very small garden areas and bars all over the doors and windows,
often filigree-style wrought-iron ornamental bars. Okay, so,
I'm no architect, but you get the idea. Another possible reason
for the bars? There's that little thing of the 6 gunshots I heard
fired last night. Close. Too close. Tuck my boy in. Read him
stories, stories, stories. He wakes up from a bad dream and I'm
laying down with him in his bed trying to get him back to sleep
and I hear, without a doubt, six gunshots fired, probably within
a block from my house. I am pretty sure they came from the building
right across the street. I won't mention the building, just in
case some bad asses are reading this. Having lived in New York
City and Los Angeles, I immediately moved my son into the center
of the house, just in case any bullets came to visit our house.
The police came by, I think. Maybe someone found a rattlesnake
in their house and decided to shoot it. Right. Anyway, I have
no clue what it was.
When you get close into the center of the old section of the
city, there are tiny, small buildings that look like they used
to be storefronts. Most of them are empty or people living there
now, but these buildings are real close together with sidewalks
and wrought iron short gates, again with the cement "yards." I
also saw a tour bus for sale. Hey, I might be looking for a tour
bus one day. The sign shoe polished on the windshield said "call
bepper 723-5555." Love it. Today I saw a van for sale that
said $950 O.M.O. I guess that's the Spanish equivalent of Or
Best Offer. Bet you don't know who the major candidate was for
Mexico? Vicente Fox. I've seen it on posters and bumper stickers
all over here. Don't know if he won or not. Dang, I don't even
know who my own presidente is.
Anyway, adios from Laredo. Check back with ya soon.
Libbi
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